The best off piste skiing in France?

 Tim shares the secrets on the best off piste skiing in France…

Mention the words off piste, backcountry or freeride and the French resorts that spring to mind are probably the likes of Chamonix, Val d’Isère, St. Foy, la Grave to name a few. It’s unlikely that high on the average list would be the family friendly resort of La Plagne. More well known for its extensive beginner and intermediate terrain, few are aware of the joys that lie outside the marked runs.

La Plagne - a resort for beginners and intermediates?

Perhaps what makes la Plagne so great after a fresh dump is the very fact that most people are slow to leave the designated pistes, even for just a little play in the powder that beckons only a few metres away.

Fresh tracks on the Friolin Bowl

The terrain that awaits them if they do is extensive and rivals many of the aforementioned big guns. I have to mention at this point that those wishing to discover it should do so with the correct equipment and a professional guide. Other contributing factors include the management’s reluctance to open the higher lifts straight after fresh snow. This might seem like a disadvantage, but it means the powder hungry can make the most of the lower sections and have a second powder day awaiting (if their legs can take it) once the full area opens.

Powpow...

I remember a few years back, on a day trip to Chamonix, being shocked by what I saw in the lift line. Over half the waiting crowd had helmets on and a significant portion were equipped with harnesses, ice screws, ropes etc. All very sensible for an area with so much glacial terrain, but also an indicator of just how quickly any easy fresh tracks will be obliterated and how quickly the ante will be raised if you want to go in search of more.

A freeride Mecca is always full of other eager freeriders and there was much excitement in the valley that day about what turned out to be only 5-10cms of very light snow over an unforgivingly rocky base. I was cautious about damaging my equipment and was surprised to see a small crowd of people huddled round a guy who appeared to be about to drop into a tight couloir with dubious snow cover. As he leaned forward from his perch I was about to shout “’ere mate, you’re still roped to the barrier”, when I realised that there was a photographer climbing up his back trying to get a good shot with the logo on his hat and his ski tips pointing into the void. I left the tourists to find out for themselves that he had no intention of skiing it.

On my first day skiing la Plagne many years ago, I took the gondola up to the glacier only to be greeted by a mogul-filled black run, or a rickety old chair lift to a narrow, snaking red cat track. Not very inspired on first impressions until you realise that these lifts give access to some wonderful off piste itineraries including the Friolin bowl, the Rochu sector, the Cul du Nante and not least the north face of Bellecote. A mythical descent off the back of our highest peak, descending all the way to the nordic ski area of Peisey Nancroix. Not a piste marker in sight for the whole route and entrance points varying from a simple traverse to 45 degree couloirs that you have to rope into.

WHEN THE WEATHER SETS IN THERE IS STILL PLENTY TO DO, WITH SOME EXCELLENT TREE SKIING, WHERE YOU CAN SPEND A WHOLE DAY (OR EVEN A WHOLE WEEK) AND NEVER DO THE SAME ROUTE TWICE.

Powder in the trees

I COULD GO ON, BUT THERE ARE NEW ITINERARIES CALLING, THAT EVEN I HAVEN’T SKIIED AFTER 2 SEASONS, SO ALL THAT REMAINS TO SAY IS GET OUT HERE AND SEE FOR YOURSELF. ACTUALLY, COME TO THINK OF IT, I HEARD CHAMONIX IS PRETTY GOOD… YOU SHOULD PROBABLY GO THERE INSTEAD.